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New York - in your kitchen
In the Big Apple, everything old is new again: Braising is the cooking method of choice, as the finest restaurants serve luxury versions of Mom's best recipes

t used to be that I would go to New York looking for new food ideas. On a recent trip I found a few old ideas that made me happy. For starters, if you are a home cook who aspires to making meals of restaurant calibre, it's time to think again, because, in New York, restaurants have taken to cooking homestyle. Creamy polenta is the side dish of the moment and braising is the cooking method of choice.

Among the meals I enjoyed were the ones I had at Craft, Asia de Cuba, DB Bistro Moderne, Lupa, Blue Smoke, City Bakery and Peasant (where the martinis are very large). The menu that follows is a recreation of some of those delicious dishes I enjoyed on my trip. Although none of the recipes come directly from the restaurants listed, all of the recipes were inspired by visits to them.

PENNE WITH BRAISED ESCAROLE AND PANCETTA
This recipe is similar to one of the pastas we had at Lupa.

-2 tbsp (25mL) olive oil

-1/4 lb (125g) pancetta, thickly sliced and diced

-1 onion, chopped

- 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

-pinch hot red pepper flakes

-1 large bunch escarole, trimmed and chopped (8 cups/2L packed)

-1 cup (250mL) chicken stock

-2 tsp (10mL) salt, or more to taste

-z1/2 tsp (2mL) pepper

-1 1/2 cups (375mL) diced crusty bread (in tiny pieces)

-3 tbsp (45mL) butter or olive oil

-3/4 lb (375g) penne

1. Heat olive oil in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven. Add pancetta and cook until crisp. Drain and reserve.

2. Add onions, garlic and red pepper flakes to the pan. Cook gently, until onions are tender and fragrant. Add the escarole and cook a few minutes longer, until wilted. Add chicken stock, salt and pepper and remove from heat.

3. Melt butter in another skillet and add bread cubes. Cook until browned and crisp. Drain and reserve.

4. Just before serving, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water. Reheat sauce. When pasta is ready, drain and add to sauce. Toss well and cook gently a few minutes until sauce is absorbed and coats pasta. Add pancetta and bread and toss. Makes 6 servings

BRAISED VEAL BRISKET

Until I went to Tom Colicchio's restaurant, Craft, I had never seen veal brisket on a fancy restaurant menu. My mother used to make this one all the time, but she never served it in a copper casserole with roasted mushrooms and creamy polenta. Here is her recipe.

-4 lb (2kg) veal breast, trimmed

-1 tbsp (15mL) salt

-1 tsp (5mL) pepper

z1 tbsp (15mL) each, chopped fresh rosemary and fresh thyme

-2 tbsp (25mL) olive oil

-3 large onions, chopped

-6 cloves garlic, chopped

-1 cup (250mL) dry white wine

-2 cups (500mL) chicken stock or water

1. Sprinkle roast on both sides with salt, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Roll up and tie securely.

2. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or roasting pan. Brown roast well on all sides. Remove from pan.

3. Add onions and garlic to the pan. Cook a minute or two, until wilted. Add wine and stock and bring to a boil. Return roast to the pan. Cover roast with parchment paper directly on surface of the meat. Cover pan with foil and then the lid. Place in a 325F(190C) oven for 4 hours or until very tender.

4. Remove roast from pan. Reduce sauce if necessary. Cut away string. Slice into thick portions. Serve with juices. Makes 8 servings

CREAMY POLENTA

This polenta works well with stews and braised dishes such as the veal recipe. The cornmeal can also be cooked in milk (instead of chicken stock) for an extra creamy texture.

-5 cups (1.25L) chicken stock

-1 tbsp (15mL) salt (more or less depending on seasoning in stock)

-1 cup (250mL) quick- cooking polenta

-1/2 tsp (2mL) freshly ground black pepper

-3 tbsp (45mL) butter

1. Bring chicken stock to a boil. Add salt. Slowly whisk in the polenta. Cook over medium heat, stirring, often, with a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes.

2. Add pepper and butter. Adjust seasoning to taste. Makes 4 to 6 servings

TOM COLICCHIO'S PAN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS

This recipe from Tom Colicchio's Think Like a Chef (see below) is delicious with the braised veal.

-1/4 cup (50mL) extra virgin olive oil

-2 lbs (1kg) mixed wild and cultivated mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed and thickly sliced

-kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

-1 shallot, finely chopped

-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

-2 tbsp (25mL) unsalted butter

-2 tbsp (25mL) fresh thyme leaves

-2 tbsp (25mL) chopped fresh tarragon

1. Heat about 1 tbsp (15mL) oil in a large heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add just enough mushrooms to cover the bottom of the skillet loosely. Season with salt and pepper. Cook about 2 minutes, and turn as they brown. Add some shallot, garlic, butter, thyme and tarragon. Cook about 2 minutes longer.

2. Transfer mushrooms to a paper towel to drain. Wipe out skillet and repeat until all the mushrooms have been cooked in small batches.

3. Just before serving, add a bit more butter to the pan and warm all the mushrooms over medium heat. Season to taste. Makes 6 to 8 servings

RICHARD SAX'S COCONUT CAKE

The coconut cake I had at Asia de Cuba was spectacular. The following recipe from Richard Sax's Classic Home Desserts is every bit as good. My kids always ask me to double the icing.

-3 1/4 cups (800mL) all-purpose flour

-4 tsp (20mL) baking powder

-1/4 tsp (1mL) salt

-1 cup (250mL) unsalted butter

-2 cups (500mL) sugar

-8 egg whites

-1 tsp (5mL) vanilla

-1/4 tsp (1mL) almond extract

-1 cup (250mL) milk

Divinity Icing:

-1 1/2 cups (375mL) sugar

-2 tbsp (25mL) corn syrup

-1/3 cup (75mL) cold water

-3 egg whites

-1/2 tsp (2mL) cream of tartar

- pinch of salt

-1 1/2 tsp (7mL) vanilla

-1 tbsp (15mL) lemon juice

-1 tbsp (15mL) hot water

-1/4 cup (50mL) canned coconut milk, well mixed

-3 cups (750mL) shredded coconut (freshly grated or store-bought)

1. For the cake, sift flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Reserve. With an electric mixer, beat butter with sugar until light and smooth. Add egg whites, vanilla and almond extract and beat until well combined. Add half the milk and beat in slowly. Add all the flour mixture and mix until combined. Add remaining milk. Divide the batter between two 9" (25cm) round cake pans that have been buttered and lined with parchment paper. Smooth top of cakes if necessary. Bake in a preheated 350F (180C) oven for 30 to 35 minutes or until top springs back when lightly touched. Cool on racks. Loosen cakes and turn out of pans. Allow to cool further.

2. For the icing, combine syrup with sugar and cold water in a small heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until sugar reaches the soft ball stage at 240F on a candy thermometer (or, when a small spoonful of the hot sugar, drizzled into cold water, forms a sticky ball). Meanwhile beat egg whites with cream of tartar and salt, until frothy. Slowly beat in hot syrup in a thin stream. Add vanilla. Continue to beat on high until mixture is cool and shiny, 6 or 7 minutes. Add lemon juice and water.

3. Slice cake layers in half. Place one layer on a plate with the cut side up. Spread with about 1 tbsp (15mL) coconut milk. Then spread with 1/2 cup (125mL) icing. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of coconut. Layer the remaining cakes ending with the nicest layer, browned side up. Frost the top and sides of cake. Press remaining coconut into sides and top of cake. Makes 12 servings

Bonnie Stern's Web site is www.bonniestern.com     National Post   27 April 2002

 

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