Rice
Soup, Khmer-Style
All over Southeast Asia, there are
versions of this one-dish meal, a thick soup in which rice is cooked in
plenty of water or broth, then flavoured with toppings and condiments. In
Cantonese, it's known as juk; in Thai, as khao tom; and in Cambodia, rice
soup is known as babah. It's made at home and is also easily found from a
market vendor. I had my first bowl of babah as a snack on my way in from
the airport and my last, in hurried regret, just before leaving Phnom
Penh.
This is comfort food at any hour in any
season, quickly prepared and easy and satisfying. Make it on a chilly
evening, or for lunch on a day when you want your guests to feel taken
care of. The whole dish can be made in just over 30 minutes, yet it tastes
of slow simmering.
-1/4 lb (125g) minced pork
-1 tbsp (15mL) Thai or Cambodian fish sauce
-1 tsp (5mL) sugar
-6 cups (1.5L) water
-2 stalks lemon grass, trimmed
-1 tbsp (15mL) dried shrimp
-3 or 4 slices ginger, peeled
-3/4 cup (175mL) Thai jasmine rice
-2 tbsp (25mL) peanut or vegetable oil
-5 cloves garlic
Garnish and Accompaniments:
-1/4 cup (50mL) Thai or Cambodian fish sauce
-1 bird chile (Thai) chopped, (or substitute Serrano or a pinch of dried
red chile flakes)
-1/4 cup (75mL) unsalted, dry-roasted peanuts
-2 shallots, chopped
-2 tbsp (25mL) peanut or vegetable oil
-2 cups (500mL) bean sprouts
-Some or all of: 4 leaves sawtooth herb, 6 sprigs rice- paddy herb, about
12 leaves Asian basil, all coarsely torn; or substitute some finely
chopped mint leaves, about 6 coarsely torn sweet basil leaves, or several
table-spoons of chopped flat-leafed parsley, to taste
-2 scallions, minced
-Generous grating of black or white pepper
-1 lime, cut into wedges (optional)
To Prepare the Soup: In a small bowl,
combine the pork with 1 tbsp (15mL) fish sauce and the sugar. Mix well to
blend, and set aside. Place the water in a large heavy pot and heat. Smash
each stalk of lemon grass flat with the side of a cleaver or heavy knife.
Add to the water, together with the shrimp. Add the peeled ginger slices.
Bring the water to a boil and boil vigorously for 5 to 10 minutes.
Sprinkle in the rice and stir gently with a wooden spoon until the water
returns to a boil. Maintain a steady gentle boil until the rice is tender,
15 to 20 minutes, then turn off the heat. Remove and discard the lemon
grass and the ginger. Meanwhile, in a wok or heavy skillet, heat 2 tbsp
(25mL) of the oil. Add the garlic and stir-fry for 30 seconds, or until
starting to turn golden. Toss in the pork and stir-fry, using your spatula
to break up lumps. Stir-fry until all the pork has changed colour (about 2
minutes), then transfer the contents of the skillet to the soup and stir
in.
To Prepare the Accompaniments: Combine
the fish sauce and chiles in a condiment bowl and set aside. On a cutting
board, chop the dry roasted peanuts coarsely and set aside. Heat the oil
in a heavy skillet, toss in the shallots and cook over medium high heat,
stirring constantly, until golden (2 to 3 minutes). Turn out into a small
bowl and set aside. Rinse the bean sprouts thoroughly in very hot water
and set aside.
To Serve: Just before serving, heat the
soup gently. Set out 4 large soup bowls. Divide the herbs you are using
among the four bowls. Top herbs with some bean sprouts and a pinch of
scallion. Pour the rice soup over top, then top with another pinch of
scallion, some of the shallots in oil, a very generous grating of pepper
and a scattering of chopped peanuts. Invite guests to garnish their own
serving with additional accompaniments. Serve the fish sauce with sliced
chile and a lime wedge in a separate condiment dish, if you wish. Serves 4
as a one-dish meal.
Adapted from Hot Sour Salty Sweet: A
Culinary Journey Through Southeast Asia, by Jeffrey Alford and
Naomi Duguid (2000) Random House (Canada).
from National
Post 8 December 2001
