|


Dancing the dreary decades
away
Shanghai's prerevolutionary
ballroom is again the venue for light-footed old-timers . . .
SHANGHAI-- Rose Tang is the last of the Old Shanghai aristocrats. At the age of
81, wearing an elegant ensemble and gold heels, she waltzes and foxtrots
across the dance floor of the sole surviving ballroom from the glory days
of the 1930s.
Her partner is a suave 24-year-old
hired dancer, dressed entirely in black, his hair slicked back in Rudolph
Valentino style. At a price of about $75 a session, he is a modern version
of the sophisticated "taxi dancers" of Shanghai's hedonistic
prerevolutionary years.
This is the Paramount, the famed Art
Deco dance hall that became the biggest and most notorious ballroom in
Asia in the tumultuous era before Shanghai fell to the Communists. And its
most famous denizen is Ms. Tang, known as Auntie Rose, who represents one
of Shanghai's last connections to its glamorous past.
"Some people describe me as the
last generation of the Chinese aristocracy," she smiles. "To me,
this is just obvious. I don't mind when people call me an aristocrat. It's
just a simple fact."
Ms. Tang is intimately connected to the
high-society families that dominated Shanghai in those glittering days.
Her sister dated the finance minister T. V. Soong, brother of the
celebrated Soong sisters -- two of whom married the nationalist leaders
Sun Yat-sen and Chiang Kai-shek. Her brother was Mr. Soong's personal
secretary. She proudly shows a black-and-white photo of her late husband,
wearing a fedora and pinstripes, who belonged to one of China's wealthiest
families.
Ms. Tang was a 16-year-old schoolgirl
in 1941, when a boyfriend invited her to the Paramount to dance to the
famous jazz band. It was the first time she wore the stylish clothing of
the era: high heels and a qipao, a tight-fitting, slinky, silk Chinese
dress.
"Back then, the Paramount was the
biggest ballroom in the Far East, and all the high-society members would
go there," she recalls, her eyes sparkling.
"It was the place for all the rich
men. They would bring dancing girls and prostitutes, so the women would
have to bring their husbands or boyfriends if they didn't want to be
regarded as prostitutes. I was from a good family, so I never talked to
those dancing girls."
The Paramount, according to a popular
guidebook of the time, was a favourite haunt of Chinese playboys who
"play tennis and speak English with each other and go to Paris once
in a while and take their favourite wives out." Hollywood celebrities
such as Charlie Chaplin were among those who visited.
But it was also an era of crime and
assassination. One of the most beautiful and famous Paramount dancing
girls was killed by a gunman at the dance hall in 1941, either because she
refused to dance with a Japanese man or because she was suspected of
espionage, depending on which story you believe. The murder just added to
the mystique of the dance hall.
Ms. Tang's family did not escape the
turmoil. When assassins tried to kill Mr. Soong at a train station, they
killed her brother by mistake. She tells the story of how her brother was
targeted because he was wearing the same kind of robe as the finance
minister, who hid behind a train to escape the assassins.
Ms. Tang survived the Japanese
occupation and the Communist revolution, but after 1949, the Paramount was
converted into a cinema, showing a glum program of Maoist propaganda
films.
Then, during the Cultural Revolution
from 1966 to 1976, the Paramount was closed entirely, and the Red Guards
denounced Auntie Rose as a class enemy.
She was forced to toil as a worker in a
zipper factory, carrying heavy buckets of metal. She points to her arms,
still scarred by the blisters she suffered from the vats of boiling water
in the factory. Fearing punishment, she burned everything from the past,
including the love letters from Mr. Soong to her sister and the
bloodstained robe that her brother wore when he was murdered.
"My only goal was to make sure
that my children survived," she says. "I kept telling myself,
'This can't go on forever. One day it will end.' " The Paramount,
meanwhile, languished in obscurity and fell into disrepair. One rainy day
in 1990, part of its façade collapsed and killed a passerby.
But in 2001, Taiwanese investors spent
$3-million to refurbish it and reopen it as a ballroom in the old
glamorous style, with red-and-gold décor. "I must come, I must have
a look," Auntie Rose said to herself as soon as she heard the news.
Today she goes to the Paramount at
least once a week. Like the ballroom itself, she is a relic of a more
glamorous era. "I come here to remember those old days," she
says. "It brings back such memories. I never thought that I would be
at the Paramount again, wearing elegant clothes again."
Although she lost all of her family
money in the Communist era, she now receives financial support from her
children who live in the United States and Japan.
She happily poses for a photographer as
she dances the rumba and the waltz. "Please be careful with your
photos because some people here are not dancing with their spouses,"
she tells the photographer.
But there aren't enough rumba dancers
to ensure the Paramount's survival. Just this month, it was announced that
the Paramount is losing so much money that its Taiwanese owners have
decided to convert the second and third floors into a disco. Only the
fourth-floor ballroom will remain in the old style, and preservationists
are worried that it could be damaged by the pounding noise of the disco.
In true aristocratic style, Auntie Rose
sniffs at the nouveaux riches who sometimes hire her dancing partner.
"They're loud and noisy," she says as she sips tea at the
Paramount. "Often their parents were peasants. I don't have any
dealings with them. They don't have the class that we had. In the old
days, if you had class, you spoke quietly and softly."
Then, clutching her gold high-heels,
she slips into a taxi and disappears into the Shanghai night. -
by Geoffrey York THE
GLOBE & MAIL
22 December 2006
 CITY THAT NEVER
SLEEPS: Shanghai's skyline glitters from the top of a Pudong skyscraper
  |
ESSENTIALS: Population:
13.52 million
GDP (2004): $89.76 billion
TV households (2004 est):
3,449,000
Adspend (2004): $2.39
billion*
Adspend (2003): $1.67
billion*
Year-on-year increase: 42.5%*
Adspend as a percentage of GDP
(2004): 2.7%
Avg. min. viewed per day per viewer
of all channels (aged 4+): 166.8
Basic cable subscription cost (per
month): $1.57
*based on published rate card |
Hong Kong was once the marketing capital of Greater China, but the
territory has become Chicago to Shanghai's New York.
Many marketers have relocated their headquarters for the region to mainland
China, knowing they have to be on the ground to have any chance of getting
that vast market right. With more than 1 billion consumers, they can't
afford to get it wrong.
While many government-related businesses in the technology and telecom
sector headed to Beijing, China's capital, many consumer goods marketers
like Unilever, McDonald's Corp., Coca-Cola Co., Siemens, Heineken and
General Motors Corp. opted for Shanghai.
Given the city's jet-set "Paris of the East" image in the 1920s
and 1930s, its rapid transformation into a marketing hub is no surprise. The
city is home to some of the most Westernized, brand-friendly, trendy
consumers in China.
Shanghai has also become China's Madison Avenue, with significant offices
for just about every major multinational agency network, including WPP
Group's JWT and Publicis Groupe's Leo Burnett. It is also the first stop for
smaller shops that want an office in China, such as Omnicom Group's TBWA
Worldwide, M&C Saatchi, Wieden+Kennedy and Havas-owned Arnold Worldwide.
"The center of creativity has shifted from Hong Kong to Shanghai,"
said Tom Doctoroff, JWT's area director, Northeast Asia & CEO, China,
who relocated to Shanghai from Hong Kong seven years ago. "I don't know
whether this is a result of increasing skills among local advertising execs
or a massive talent shift [moving from Hong Kong] north of the border. I
suspect it's a 50-50 combination."
A walk down this colorful, cosmopolitan city's major arteries supplies ample
reasons why foreigners, whether from London or Hong Kong, choose to live in
this lively city.
The riverside strip called the Bund is home to some of the best restaurants
and nightclubs in the world, such as Jean-Georges, M on the Bund, Laris and
Bar Rouge, as well as a multi-level Armani flagship store. Business and
shopping districts like Nanjing Rd. West and Xintiandi also are packed with
tempting restaurants and luxury retail shops, like the three-story
"Sony Gallery" that opened last year in Huaihai Road, the first
such Sony lifestyle outlet in Asia outside Japan.
Shanghai properties draw pension funds
Overseas pension funds and insurers may
become main buyers of premium office and commercial properties in Shanghai
as shorter-term investors could sell due to falling yields, Jones Lang
LaSalle (JLL) said last week.
Overseas pension funds and insurers may
become main buyers of premium office and commercial properties in Shanghai
as shorter-term investors could sell due to falling yields, Jones Lang
LaSalle (JLL) said last week.
Property investors with a relatively
short-term investment horizon, such as banks and private equity firms, may
have achieved their return targets and consider selling, especially when
investment yields are being compressed, it said.
'Some of the opportunistic and
value-added investors will now be looking to sell because they have met
their IRR (internal rate of return) targets,' the property consultancy said
in a press release.
'Consequently, we believe that the number
of core assets up for sale will rise as these funds realise their
investments,' it said, adding that long-term investors such as pension funds
and insurance firms would likely become the buyers.
Several long-term investors last year
bought major projects, including the US$188 million acquisition of a
Shanghai office property by German pension fund SEB, it said.
Greg Hyland, a JLL director, told
reporters he didn't expect an immediate wave of investment from foreign
insurers and pension funds in Shanghai's property market - partly because
China is trying to cool its property market and some of the recently
introduced measures would complicate cross-border transactions.
Rents and capital value of Shanghai
office and commercial properties are expected to rise, but growth would be
'less explosive' than in 2000-2006 when rents rose 14 per cent annually, JLL
said.
Opportunistic investors, who typically
hold properties for three to five years, have already been hunting for
property projects in second-tier Chinese cities for higher yields, it said.
Foreign investors, including Wall Street
banks Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley, have poured billions of dollars into
Shanghai properties over the past few years, partly driven by China's
currency appreciation.
Strong price rises in Shanghai and other
major Chinese cities such as Beijing have driven down rental yields.
Gross yields on Shanghai office property
fell to below 8 per cent in 2006, although they are still higher than the
around 5 per cent in Hong Kong and Singapore and 4 per cent in Tokyo, and
most fixed-income products, property consultancy CBRE has said.
JLL said that Shanghai's office property
market is becoming attractive to long-term investors because of the steady
demand from international corporations and the growing supply of grade-A
office towers.
The occupancy rate of high-end offices in
Shanghai may stay at around 90 per cent over the next three years, with
investment-grade office supply likely to peak in 2010 - when total space
should reach 6.2 million square metres, JLL said.
- 2007 September 25 REUTERS
Shanghai to curb property buying by
foreign firms
China's biggest city plans to tighten
controls on purchases of property by foreign
companies to help cool surging real estate prices, a newspaper report said
yesterday.
'We no longer encourage foreign companies
to purchase en bloc properties rather thandevelop their own,' the state-run
newspaper Shanghai Daily quoted Liu Jinping, head of the city's Foreign
Economic Relations and Trade Commission, as saying.
'Stricter requirements are applied to the
approval of such acquisition deals to prevent prices from being pushed up by
speculative investors,' Mr Liu said.
The report gave no details on what
further restrictions might be imposed.
The government has already imposed
special taxes and other controls, including a requirement that overseas
institutional investors with investments in China totalling more than US$10
million hold at least half the investment as registered capital in a
China-incorporated company, the report said.
Real estate purchases accounted for 4.4
billion yuan (S$884 million), or nearly half, of all acquisition deals
between local and overseas companies in 2006, up 44 per cent over the
previous year, according to the report.
Among major deals was the purchase of a
downtown office building by investment bank Morgan Stanley for 1.96 billion
yuan. - AP
2007 August 23

Shanghai Rising
Benjamin Wood swings his bulky frame over the saddle, straps on his
helmet, and settles onto a vintage motorcycle with sidecar. The American
architect kicks the engine into life with a single thrust and pulls into the
rush-hour traffic coursing through Shanghai's trendy Xintiandi district. He
soon steers down a narrow street and enters another world. While Xintiandi
is all luxury shops and outdoor cafés, in surrounding neighborhoods the
sidewalks are full of people playing mah-jongg in their pajamas, washing
dishes at outdoor taps, or popping dumplings into bubbling oil. Life goes on
much as it has for the past half-century.
As the bike gathers speed, Wood's white silk jacket flaps in the wind.
Passing between some of the fast-disappearing courtyard houses of Shanghai,
he waves at locals making dinner. "They know me pretty well in this
neighborhood, because I like to ride through here a lot," he says,
raising his voice to be heard over the growling motor. "What they don't
know," he adds with a hint of regret, "is that I'm also the guy
who is going to make this way of life disappear."
Although few might recognize Wood, virtually anyone who has spent more
than a day or two in Shanghai will know Xintiandi. The rebuilt neighborhood
is Wood's first and best-known work in China, a collage of cobblestone
streets, narrow alleyways, and graceful tiled roofs. Xintiandi, which
translates as "New Heaven and Earth," has become one of Shanghai's
top tourist destinations. Foreigners love it because it evokes the colonial
era and is one of the few neighborhoods to escape the wrecker's ball, while
locals are drawn to the bistros, bars, and boutiques that lend it a Western
cachet.
Wood's work at Xintiandi has become a symbol of the changing aspirations
China has for Shanghai. In 1992, Deng Xiaoping declared that Shanghai would
be "the head of the dragon" pulling the country into the future,
and the Chinese have poured tens of billions of dollars into rebuilding the
city after a half-century of neglect. The pace has slackened after a a
scandal over municipal pension money spent on questionable real estate
deals, but the city is still booming.
Problem is, Shanghai has long preferred megaprojects that blindly ape the
kind of high-rise developments that scream "modernity" but have
little to do with traditional Chinese culture. Until Ben Wood, that is.
Xintiandi represents Wood's signature style: Instead of calling in the
bulldozers, he imagines a rundown neighborhood as something refreshed. He
refurbishes old buildings, saves the facades of others while gutting their
interiors, and designs new structures that blend in.
That graceful melding of old and new fits Shanghai's ambitions as it
steams toward its third decade of hypergrowth. Like Renaissance Florence,
London in the 1800s, or New York early in the 20th century, Shanghai aims to
muscle its way into a top spot in the global economic order—a role it
played back in the 1920s. Today, Shanghai is the mainland's most populous
city, with 18 million residents. It's home to the Asia headquarters of more
than 150 global corporations, including General Motors, IBM , and Alcatel-Lucent.
And multinationals are boosting their commitment. GM today employs some
1,800 white-collar workers in the city, 60% more than in 2004, while
Citibank now has 2,000 employees there, up from 80 in 1999. "Shanghai
has very visible ambitions to be a major financial center in the region and
perhaps beyond," says Richard Stanley, CEO of Citigroup China.
Expatriates love Shanghai's nightlife, while skilled young Chinese and
migrant laborers have rushed to cash in on the city's surging economy.
Shanghai is growing at 12%—even faster than the 10.7% expansion that China
as a whole saw in 2006—and the city's gross domestic product was $136
billion last year. That's less than half of London's, but Shanghai's growth
is three times as fast the British capital's. And Shanghai has attracted
some $120 billion in foreign direct investment since 1992, including
commitments of $14.6 billion last year, or 23% of China's total fdi for
2006. "You are witnessing the greatest transformation of a piece of
earth in history. It's mind-boggling," says Greg Yager, vice-president
of Baltimore design firm RTKL Associates, which has done planning work in
the city.
The opportunities in Shanghai have attracted scores of foreign
architects, who have helped craft one of the world's most extraordinary
skylines. In the financial district of Pudong, which until two decades ago
was little more than rice paddies and small factories, the 88-story Jin Mao
Tower (designed by Chicago's Skidmore, Owings & Merrill) is home to GM,
Credit Lyonnais, and IBM. Next door, the 101-story Shanghai World Financial
Center (from New York's Kohn Pederson Fox Associates)—originally planned
as the world's tallest building, but now eclipsed by Taiwan's Taipei
101—is about three-quarters completed. Across the Huangpu River, the
66-story Plaza 66 (by Atlanta-based John Portman & Associates) houses
General Electric, BP, and KPMG. And the once-dilapidated Bund, the erstwhile
Wall Street of Asia on the riverfront, has been re-energized with packed
nightclubs, tony boutiques, and trendy restaurants. "Shanghai is a
dynamic, exciting, increasingly multicultural city," says Robert
Pallash, president for Asia at auto-parts maker Visteon Corp.,
which moved its regional headquarters to Shanghai from Japan in 2003. One
reason the city won out over Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Singapore: It's an
easier sell for expats. "It's very important to attract people from the
global organization," Pallash says.
Attracting locals is equally important. The legions of migrants flocking
to Shanghai are filling Visteon's factories, as well as those of Intel,
Philips, Honeywell, and scores of other multinationals. And the city's
universities are churning out thousands of engineering grads every year,
which provides a steady supply of researchers for labs run by corporations
from around the world. At its facility in Zizhu Science Park, 18 miles
southwest of the center, Intel Corp. now employs 1,000 people, up from about
40 in 2000. A decade ago, "it was difficult to find a high-quality
office building," and qualified workers were scarce, says Wang Wen-hann,
general manager of the lab. Today, "all these factors have
matured," he says.
OVERSTRETCHED INFRASTRUCTURE
In neighborhood after neighborhood, though, eight-lane expressways and
steel-and-glass behemoths crowd out gracious townhouses and tenements dating
to the early 20th century. The city has doubled its housing stock over the
past two decades, but most of those new homes are in soulless skyscrapers.
And many of Pudong's towers stand alongside the 100-yard-wide Century
Avenue, a thoroughfare that's nearly impossible to cross and lacks so much
as a kiosk selling newspapers, let alone a sidewalk café. The district
represents "a failure to create a livable urban environment," says
Tom Doctoroff, the chief executive for Greater China at ad agency JWT Co.
That's a problem for a place with mega-ambitions. If companies find that
Shanghai has become too pricey or too congested for the kinds of employees
they want to attract, it may quickly fall from the global hot list.
Top-quality office space today costs more than in Midtown Manhattan, and
expatriates typically pay $5,000 to $10,000 or even more in monthly rent.
The air can be unbreathable, and the highways are clogged much of the day.
"You have a city whose infrastructure is totally stretched," says
Steve Mullinjer, managing partner at executive search firm Heidrick &
Struggles in Shanghai. "It's like a wild horse...with no way to rein it in."
Controlling that runaway horse is Job One in Shanghai, and how Shanghai
grapples with that issue is important for all of China. Hundreds of millions
of migrants are likely to move to the mainland's cities in coming decades,
and much of the rest of the country looks to the city for cues. So if
Shanghai bulldozes its history to build highways, you can bet that many
other cities will follow suit. Since 2000 the number of cars on the mainland
has tripled, and Shanghai and Beijing are already ringed with single-family
homes and new communities accessible only by car. With 1.3 billion people,
the mainland can ill afford the kind of suburban culture that many seem to
want. "The government is now more aware of quality-of-life
issues," says Daniel Vasella, chairman of pharmaceutical giant Novartis
and head of the International Business Leaders Advisory Council for the
Mayor of Shanghai. "They realize that if you can't deliver [a good
standard of living], people won't want to live there."
Perhaps that's why the Chinese have taken so readily to Ben Wood. The
59-year-old architect, whose white beard and ruddy complexion make him seem
more like a good ol' boy from his native Georgia than a hotshot designer,
was drawn to Shanghai's street life and the crowded tenements known as
shikumen. These two-story buildings, a mélange of Chinese and Western
styles with carved stone details, had remained largely untouched since the
Communists took over in 1949. But when Wood arrived in Shanghai in 1998 to
design Xintiandi, they were rapidly being razed.
At the Xintiandi site, Wood suggested saving the structures and creating
a walking district that would preserve the sense of community of old
Shanghai. That was a revelation to the city fathers, who until then had
struggled to find an alternate way of expressing Shanghai's newfound
confidence and affluence. Having proved it can replicate the West in
districts such as Pudong, the city was looking for a second wave of
development that wouldn't just import styles wholesale, but could give shape
to its aspirations as a world-class metropolis. Wood "understands the
relationship between new and old buildings," says Wu Jiang, deputy
director of the Shanghai Urban Planning Bureau.
If Wood has been good for Shanghai, Shanghai has been equally good to
Wood. He kept a relatively low profile in the U.S., but in China he's a true
star. Xintiandi's success has spawned countless imitators on the mainland,
and Wood has received more than a dozen major commissions. Today he runs a
studio of 30 draftsmen and designers, and inquiries from prospective clients
roll in almost daily. He is working on a mountain resort, a development
similar to Xintiandi in the western city of Chongqing, and another in
Hangzhou, a lakeside city 120 miles southwest of Shanghai. Wood "is
totally different from other foreigners practicing in China," says Ma
Qingyun, a Shanghai architect and now dean of the School of Architecture at
the University of Southern California. "He is quite into the human
side."
TRICKY POLITICAL LANDSCAPE
To keep Shanghai's growth from tearing apart its urban fabric, the city is
building nine new communities on the periphery that are expected to house a
total of a million or more newcomers by 2020. These projects, called
"One City, Nine Towns," were planned as self-sufficient satellite
cities where residents can live, work, and shop, without having to travel
into central Shanghai. Each was also designed thematically to resemble the
cities of other countries or cultures—a notion some dismiss as frivolous.
In Fencheng, for instance, a Spanish group is creating streetscapes inspired
by Barcelona's Ramblas promenade. Albert Speer, son of Hitler's favorite
architect, is the brains behind Anting, a community modeled after small
cities in Germany and home to the Shanghai Formula One circuit as well as
Volkwagen's joint-venture auto factory. And Thames Town looks like an English village
with cobblestone streets, half-timbered Tudor buidings, red telephone boxes,
and a statue of Sir Winston Churchill. "It's farcical," Wood says.
"Why pretend you are living in some fantasy land?"
Wood's contribution to the nine towns effort is less garish. In Qingpu,
on the southwestern edge of Shanghai, he is working on an 830-unit
residential complex that draws its inspiration from the area's ancient
canals, bridges, and walkways. His aim, he says, is to create buildings on a
human scale that relate to their environs. "The biggest problem in
China is that the Forbidden City is burned into every brain," says
Wood. "It's symmetrical, monumental, and out of scale."
China's modern-day mandarins can be equally intrusive. In 2004,
Rockefeller Group International, the New York-based property development arm
of Mitsubishi, hired Wood to plan a 30-acre site the developers call Rock
Bund. The project will incorporate a 1928 art deco theater and more than two
dozen colonial-era buildings. Rockefeller seemed to have everything going
for it, including the support of Shanghai Communist Party Secretary Chen
Liangyu.
But in a city changing as rapidly as Shanghai, you never quite know when
you might end up building on political quicksand. Last September,
Rockefeller executives got a disturbing call from their lawyer, saying,
"Our friend is in the slammer." The friend was Wu Minglie, the
chairman of New Huangpu Group, a Chinese company that was working with
Rockefeller. He had been detained and accused of misappropriating city
pension funds for property development. Shortly thereafter Secretary Chen
was sacked in what many believe was a power struggle with China's central
leadership in Beijing. Rockefeller Group executives declined to comment on
the record about the affair, which a company spokesperson calls
"extremely delicate." Though most projects have been delayed since
Chen's ouster, there's no indication that Rock Bund is in danger of being
scuttled.
Despite the headaches, Wood isn't one to shrink from a challenge. A
latecomer to architecture, he didn't start practicing until he was 36. By
that time he had flown fighter jets with the U.S. Air Force and founded a
mountaineering school and a French restaurant in Colorado. At 31, he
enrolled in a graduate architecture program at the Massachusetts Institute
of Technology. He soon started his own firm with Ecuadoran Carlos Zapata and
broke into the big leagues in 1998 with a commission to rebuild Soldier
Field, the Chicago Bears' stadium.
When Wood was in the middle of the Soldier Field project, he got a call
from Hong Kong. Would he pick up a business-class ticket waiting for him at
the airport and come ASAP? Two days later, Wood was being whisked by limo to
the offices of Vincent Lo, chairman of property group Shui-On. The meeting
lasted five minutes. "He told me, I want you on the next plane to
Shanghai and back here tomorrow morning,'" Wood recalls.
After a few hours wandering the dilapidated neighborhoods that would
become Xintiandi, Wood returned to Hong Kong to make his pitch. He cited
Boston's Faneuil Hall Marketplace and mountain villages in Italy as
potential models. As luck would have it, Lo was a fan of the Boston
development and had spent time in Tuscany. "After half an hour, I said,
This is the man I want to work with,'" says Lo, who gave Wood the job
over three competing architects. Within six months, some 1,600 families had
been relocated to new developments far from their old homes—not always
happily, despite having indoor plumbing and their own kitchens for the first
time. "We did things like take off their roofs to speed up the
process," Wood says.
The irony of Xintiandi's success is that surrounding blocks have been
bulldozed for luxury developments, spelling the end of the local charm that
attracted Wood in the first place. Lo now wants to turn adjacent property
into a theater district that will rival Broadway or London's West End.
Although a few handsome brick buildings will be saved, the expanded site
will also include four theaters, a 68-story office tower and high-end
apartments. The outdoor dining, meanwhile, won't be at dumpling stands, but
at upscale restaurants. "The real tragedy is not the disappearance of
the [old buildings], but of life on the streets," Wood says.
As Shanghai's transformation continues apace, Wood is likely to be there
to watch it unfold and lend a hand where he can. In 2003, he moved full-time
to Shanghai, one of the few foreign architects to make such a commitment. On
any given evening, you're likely to find him holding court in the dr Bar, a
Xintiandi watering hole he designed and owns, or treating guests to grilled
salmon and steaks in his two-story penthouse, followed by a soak in the
outdoor hot tub with views of the city's ever-changing skyline. Will he ever
go back to the U.S.? Don't bet on it. Shanghai's growth still offers plenty
of opportunities, especially for an architect who understands that it takes
more than tall buildings to make a truly global capital. "If Shanghai
is unable to provide the quality of life of a world city like Paris or
London, it will never become a major financial center," Wood says.
"But the wild west atmosphere is being replaced by more sophisticated
development strategies. And this will ultimately be to Shanghai's
advantage." - Frederick
Balfour BUSINESS
WEEK 8 February 2007

Ben Wood has neither the theory-ridden vocabulary
nor the matte-black wardrobe typical of maverick architects these days. With
his gentle paunch, worn leather sandals and grizzly white beard, he comes
across as more of a couch potato than a man of action, though the vintage
Chinese army motorcycle and sidecar hint at an adventurous spirit.
Still, over the last five years Mr. Wood has
transformed himself from a successful Boston architect into a Shanghai
powerbroker whose designs translate into billions of dollars in development.
The profession’s big players are flocking to
China to compete for commissions. Even the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas has
raved about the opportunities to be had. But Mr. Wood is one of the very few
allowed to build whole neighborhoods without a local associate or a
government institute to sign the construction documents. At his occasional
public appearances in the United States, architects line up to seek his
advice on how to get in on the action.
“I’m trying to change China, and China has
definitely changed me,” Mr. Wood said during a recent interview on
Martha’s Vineyard, where he and his wife were camping in a safari-style
tent. “People have no idea of the scope of the work that’s up for grabs
right now. It’s like the Wild West was in America.’’
The turning point for Mr. Wood, now 58, was his
2003 Xintiandi project in downtown Shanghai, a $200 million two-block
“entertainment environment” stuffed with modern restaurants, clubs,
cafes and boutiques, accessorized with old bricks, stone gates and ornately
carved wooden balconies from the dense warren of old courtyard houses that
previously filled those blocks. Xintiandi proved so successful a model for
urban redevelopment that it spawned at least dozens of duplicates across the
country. Developers now use the term “to Xintiandi” when asking their
architects for more aspirational China-lite designs.
Critics, however, argue that he has undermined the
need to preserve China’s fast-vanishing architectural heritage with a
pastiche that is only one photo-op away from Disneyland. In The New Yorker
magazine Paul Goldberger described Xintiandi as “a stage set of an idyllic
past, created so that people in China can experience the same finely wrought
balance of theme park and shopping mall that increasingly passes for upscale
urban life in the United States.”
Qingyun Ma, an internationally respected architect
in China, said that Xintiandi’s influence “is such
that every city wants to have one.”
“Even I myself have done projects that are
Xintiandi-ish,’’ he said. “However, this unchallenged embrace of one
way is a threat because it abandons other modes of historical practice.”
Mr. Wood has applied his formula to projects all
over mainland China, from Chongqing to Wuhan to Hangzhou. In Hangzhou he
adapted 10 blocks of a sleepy lakeside area into a resort with pagoda-style
roof-scapes, trellis-covered walkways and a high-tech conference center. For
his $80 million Cambridge Watertown project in Zhujiajiao, he has proposed
narrow canals inspired by China’s 13th-century water-town plans stitched
together with picturesque foot bridges and semi-detached contemporary-style
condos.
When he ambles through the streets of Shanghai
these days, Mr. Wood said, “some still walk up to me because they
recognize me, and they are happy and proud of the new life” in their old
neighborhood. It sometimes turns out that the well-wishers have been forced
out of their homes and into new high-rise apartment buildings elsewhere by
Mr. Wood’s projects.
“Wood is a star in China,” said Cliff Pierson,
an editor at Architectural Record magazine who manages a biannual awards
program for new Chinese architecture. “China needed someone like Wood to
show them you can make more money by saving rather than tearing down old
buildings. No one had done that before because it was so much easier to work
with a blank slate.
“Now there are dozens of copycats. But it’s
not so much the number that’s so influential but that Wood has changed the
way people with money think about public places.”
In Shanghai, Mr. Wood is now undertaking the next
chapter for Xintiandi: a complete theater district with four Broadway-style
performance spaces, two of which he promises will be “Andrew Lloyd
Weberesque,” with 2,800 seats. For the project, now under way, Kohn
Pedersen Fox architects have also designed a futuristic oval-shaped
skyscraper, which will be accompanied by at least three other towers, along
with a Times-Square-like intersection featuring huge electronic billboards
and — a favorite Wood feature — an artificial lake.
A popular open-air antiques row, now home to some
180 dealers, will be dismantled, upgraded and rebuilt in replicate form.
About 40 “top dealers” will be readmitted. Underground the whole thing
connects to five levels of parking.
Mr. Wood casts himself as a kind of swashbuckling
suit. After stints as a fighter pilot, restaurateur, ski bum and contractor,
he earned his architecture degree from the Massachusetts Institute of
Technology in 1984, when he was 37. He then spent 10 years working for Ben
Thompson, the architect and mastermind of something known in the industry as
the festival marketplace. Most visible in places like Faneuil Hall in Boston
and South Street Seaport in New York, it is an economic juggernaut of
arguable distinction wherein the dilapidated gives way to the upscale and
the trendy, all with a dash of old-time historical flavor.
“Ben Thompson taught me that architecture should
be about more than just making buildings that don’t fall down,” Mr. Wood
said. He gestured toward a stack of carved timbers from a 150-year-old
Chinese temple that he’d seen on the back of a truck in China. He talked
the driver into selling them and now intends to build with them on property
he owns in Martha’s Vineyard.
The call to go to China came in 1998, when Mr.
Wood was running an architecture practice with Carlos Zapata in Boston. (His
best-known project with Mr. Zapata was a controversial stadium renovation at
Soldier Field, home of the Chicago Bears.) The two were invited along with
several Western architectural firms, including Skidmore, Owings &
Merrill, to enter a Hong Kong developer’s competition for a two-block
neighborhood in old Shanghai. There was a catch: the site had to be cleared
of undesirable elements, and the job had to be well under way by May 1999 in
time for an official visit already scheduled by President Jiang Zemin.
While other architects suggested tearing out the
old rabbit warren of courtyard houses, built by the French in the 1860’s
on interlaced narrow lanes, Mr. Wood said he could design around and with
them. He got the job.
Working in Shanghai was a revelation. He did not
speak Mandarin, and he hiked around the city for miles so he would be able
to find his way back to his hotel without relying on a cab. “If you say
‘the Ritz,’ some cabdrivers won’t understand you,” Mr. Wood said.
“They call it ‘Por-ta-ma-na’ after John Portman, the architect who
designed it.”
To get a feel for the local vernacular, he asked
guides to take him to any place that hadn’t changed much for a hundred
years or since before there was electricity. He was especially struck, he
said, by the street life along the narrow alleys in the older parts of the
French Concession. Private life was conducted in public to a degree he had
not witnessed elsewhere. “They even walk around outside in their pajamas
and underwear if it’s hot,” Mr. Wood recalled.
At Xintiandi, Mr. Wood fostered communal feeling
in some notably un-Chinese ways. Despite having been warned that there is no
Chinese tradition for alfresco dining, he designed the neighborhood to be
chockablock with outdoor cafes. He also created a wide esplanade sweeping
along the edge of an artificial lake.
Photographs show a waterfront view with a swath of
well-kept lawn, a string of lampposts along a stone path and various
high-rises twinkling at night in the background: hardly a traditional vista
for Shanghai. But local residents have made it their own, Mr. Wood said,
coming down in droves on summer nights to gather for ballroom dancing or to
play Canto Pop on their boomboxes. Xintiandi is also a magnet for foreign
tourists, who flock to its clubs by night.
To make way for all this, many of the 4,500 people
who used to live there had to be relocated to modern apartment buildings;
those who did not want to go, Mr. Wood acknowledged, were likely to find
their roofs removed. Such forced relocations are frequently criticized by
foreigners. Locals, perhaps used to even more radical changes, seem to take
them more in stride. Mr. Wood himself simply says that everyone was fairly
compensated. As for the old schoolhouse where Mao attended the first meeting
of the Communist Party, it has been preserved.
Local land values are now soaring. But Mr. Wood
said he was most proud of the way that Xintiandi has attracted small
entrepreneurs who are buying and renting shop fronts for their own boutique
businesses.
“I was working in unknown territory, and
sometimes it was scary,” he said of that first project. “At the same
time here was someplace where I could do more in 15 years than most
architects do in their entire careers.” So in 2004 he decided to move to
China full time.
Two years later he still comes across as a
hyped-up romantic who relishes the prospect of living big and does not
concern himself overmuch with compromises that a more fastidious architect
might refuse.
To succeed he has had to learn fast about a place
where the word for “fake” is a compliment, meaning something that did
not cost full price. Certain back-alley copy shops, he learned by grim
experience, sell duplicates of the computer discs that architects drop off
for reproduction. It may be only a matter of hours before a PowerPoint
presentation of a new design is available for sale in a pirated edition.
As a result so-called fake firms abound, he said.
Mr. Wood said he sometimes interviewed young Chinese designers who proudly
show him work he knows was actually done by well-known firms like SOM, Cesar
Pelli, Kohn Pedersen Fox or even his own.
Mr. Wood has also learned the finer points of
etiquette: how to plan for the procession of V.I.P.’s visiting the
construction site in their black cars, or whether to wear a tie to meetings
with representatives of the government (which typically has a 10 percent
stake in most large-scale construction). The more elite the official is, the
less likely he’ll be to wear a tie. To get the job, it pays to show
confidence and follow suit.
In spite of such complexities, Mr. Wood said that
building in China had an appealing immediacy. “In the United States you
are not allowed as an architect to speak to a worker on a construction site,
make a suggestion or help figure out a design flaw when it crops up,” he
said, lamenting the protocols regarding liabilities and the union
regulations that govern most American construction sites. On an American
project, “you can’t say anything at all without a lawyer in tow,’’
he added. “In China they often don’t even bother with contracts.”
Mr. Wood has opened a martini bar, called DR (for
Design Research, in tribute to a store founded by Ben Thompson that was a
forerunner to Crate & Barrel), in Xintiandi that has become a pit stop
for architects and developers visiting from abroad. “It has a definite
vibe, part SoHo, part Rick’s Place,” said Mr. Pierson of the
Architectural Record. “A lot of expats go there, and Wood loves holding
court. He wears that beard, and in China they tend to automatically respect
people with white beards.”
Mr. Pierson acknowledged that Mr. Wood’s
approach to architecture would not go over well with Western
preservationists. “He keeps facades, moves pieces around, adds windows
where there were none,’’ he said. “If he were doing that with historic
properties in the U.S., I would be more critical. But for China saving even
bits and pieces is an important leap. Ten years from now when preservation
there has become more sophisticated, they’ll be able to look back and say
this was the first important step.”
For Henry Ng of the World Monuments Fund,
freewheeling economic development is “ a threat more lethal than razing
buildings.” And Mr. Wood’s design approach is appealing to Chinese
developers because it shows that “preservation can be profitable,’’
said Mr. Ng, who was reached by e-mail while touring the hutong, or ancient
city lanes, in Beijing.
Mr. Wood is dismissive of the complaints that his
projects have a theme-park air. “That’s only because they are so
clean,” he said. “As for authenticity, consider this: Every sidewalk
paver is made of hand-hammered granite. It takes a day to install four of
them.”
Preservation, he said, is not his goal anyway:
“The real point is not the architecture of the place, but the new life a
place attracts. The hutong probably should be torn down. They can’t even
accommodate sewage pipes, let alone cables for everything else people need
today. That doesn’t mean destroy the kind of place they were.”
Still, the heady days when this corner of the
world was a Western architect’s oyster may be winding down. Chinese
architects want the commissions for themselves. “I don’t like being
confronted at every meeting with a room full of architects staring at me
resentfully,’’ Mr. Wood said, adding, “The window is closing quite
fast.”
For the next stage in his career he wants to
design eco-resorts in Yunnan Province, a rolling mountainous and pasture
region near the Tibetan border that was renamed Shangri-La to attract
tourism development. He envisions visitors staying in tents much like his
own on Martha’s Vineyard.
He has also bought an old Tibetan farmhouse that
he hopes to renovate and where he might be able to keep and fly a 1947
Seabee plane he has had restored.
“I’m going to stay in China a while longer,”
he said. “There are limits to what I can do in the United States. I
don’t fit in with the C.E.O. culture there. But in China being flamboyant
is a good thing.” - by Julie Iovine NEW
YORK TIMES 13 Aug 2006
 Chinese American's Shanghai showcase
Handel Lee - the man behind this city's most chic building, "Three
on the Bund" - wants to turn ever-changing Shanghai into a showcase of
contemporary Chinese art.
The 43-year-old Chinese American lawyer spent the first 20 years of his
life in the United States and the second half in China, where he arrived in
1981. His project for Shanghai started in 1999.
"I wanted to open an art gallery like I did in Beijing in
1996," he told AFP.
He chose a road running along the Huangpu river, a once-luxurious strip
called "The Bund" that had been a symbol of the power of the big
business and banking of the 1920s and 1930s and which he wanted to restore
to glory.
With a partner, Lee bought a neo-classical building constructed in 1916
in a Western style. They spent US$48 million on the building and another
US$33 million on renovations.
What resulted has become home to seven floors, each measuring 12,000
square meters (129,120 square feet), of the most exclusive fashion, art,
spas and restaurants in China's largest and wealthiest city.
The plan was undoubtedly influenced by his parents - his artist mother
and engineer father who fled after the communist party of Mao Zedong took
power in 1949.
"Elegance, fine art, culture, lifestyle went away the 50 past years.
It's a tragedy," the elegant lawyer said.
After 20 years in Maryland and New York, Lee left the United States to
study in Beijing.
He arrived at a time when China was starting to open to the outside
world.
"In 1981, it was a totally different world from today: very few
cars, no private cars, people were very poor," he said.
"In 1982, I decided to come back definitely. I was lucky to be born
and raised in the United States so I wanted to do something for China. My
parents always reminded me to be proud of being Chinese," said Lee, who
spends his time between Beijing and Shanghai.
He opened an art gallery in Beijing, but wanted to do more in Shanghai.
"Chinese people don't understand contemporary art," he said.
"A restaurant draws people. They relax, have a good time, meet
friends and in that state of mind they can accept new ideas," he said.
He is frustrated by even the city government's focus on money and power
and lack of interest in culture.
"Today people make money as never before here. But what makes a
great civilization is not an army or economy," he said.
"The authorities don't do anything. Art, culture are not emphasized
by government. You don't make money with art."
Lee has scores of other projects up his sleeve, in Shanghai and also for
Tokyo, London and Paris.
And in 2006, he wants to launch another version of "Three on the
Bund" in Beijing in the former U.S. embassy, close to Tiananmen Square.
He is proud of having built "the most significant place in
Shanghai" but admits the place does not make much money.
"The return on the investment will be long, but what was most
important was to create a space that holds the most dynamic creative aspects
of contemporary society," he said.
"At the moment there are no good Chinese designers, no good Chinese
architects because there is no stimulation, no creativity."
- By Dominique Ageorges
AFP
1 Nov 2004
An American Born Chinese Doing Real Estate Deals in
Shanghai
Obsessive people get things done and Handel Lee is a man obsessed. His
mission to restore and convert one of Shanghai's historic buildings on The
Bund into a commercially driven cultural centre has just been realised.
Phase one of the project, called simply by the building's address, Three
on The Bund, is a contemporary art gallery in the building's central atrium,
which opened for business last month.
This is the culmination of five years of hard slog since Mr Lee, 42, a
Maryland-born son of Chinese immigrants to the United States, started work
on the project in 1999.
With the former 1916 Union Assurance Building on Shanghai's historic
waterfront, he becomes the first foreigner (he is a United States citizen)
to negotiate the purchase of an entire building on The Bund. Though the
mainland's policy on land ownership may have been eased, it remains almost
impossible under current legislation in high-profile locations. But Mr Lee,
an energy sector specialist and partner in the Beijing office of
Houston-based law firm Vinson and Elkins, was undeterred.
Having overcome official roadblocks in 1996 to open his successful
Courtyard restaurant-cum-art gallery in the grounds of the Forbidden City in
Beijing, he knew what perseverance could achieve.
When he moved to Beijing from Washington DC in 1991, Shanghai held little
appeal for Mr Lee, who now has homes in both cities.
"I used to hate going there, always dusty, dirty and chaotic,"
he admitted. But by 1999 he felt that Shanghai had shrugged off any chips on
its shoulder about being second-best to Beijing. "Shanghai people felt
they were back at the top of business and society in modern China," he
said.
So when he first looked over the seven-storey No 3, The Bund,
Shanghai's first steel-framed building, he was intrigued. "It was a
shell," said Mr Lee.
At that time The Bund was designated the "financial Wall Street of
China, but it wasn't happening so the government started promoting Pudong as
the financial centre instead", he said.
Impressed by the "amazing building and location", he saw an
opportunity to do "something very different and special. It may sound
naive and idealistic but I wanted to do something to help establish
standards of culture in Shanghai. I wanted to create something where society
could share culture and art." It was the same concept behind the
Courtyard in Beijing, he explained. "So many young Chinese people have
never experienced art for real."
First he had to convince the Shanghai planners of the wisdom of his
Renaissance vision for the building they saw as a potential bank or office.
"We were told The Bund was not zoned for `entertainment' purposes,
so we had to get a variance to do something different," he said.
"We got tremendous support from the higher levels of government -
and tremendous opposition lower down."
At the time there was confusion about the future of The Bund, and many
mid-ranking officials were loath to approve anything that might go against
final policy.
Being a business lawyer, he "set up structures that achieve a
business goal", said Mr Lee.
It is not a 50-50 split but Mr Lee and his partners, Grand Tour Tires, a
Singapore property developer and tyre maker, are shareholders in the
project.
He has put his own money in the project, which had an overall investment
of about US$47 million, he said. "I wish it were less."
The Shanghai government was firmly behind the project, he said, and a
Chinese bank had provided funding, though he would not say which one.
Three on The Bund is set to be Shanghai's hippest and classiest
entertainment centre.
It will have China's first Evian Spa, exclusive French and Japanese
restaurants, a jazz lounge and private tea salons. The first two floors will
house A-list luxury and fashion brands and a Bernardaud Cafe. Mr Lee is
overseeing what will be the largest art gallery in Shanghai. He is convinced
its central location in the building's atrium is justified by the interest
China's nouveaux riches are showing in art.
"We want to show significant contemporary art, and yes, we want to
sell it, maybe to bankers, offices and hopefully to collectors so it stays
in China," he said.
Paintings will cost from tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars, he
admits, but promises affordable prints. As for the future of Three on The
Bund, he has no exit strategy. "It's a commercial venture, but aside
from a financial return it's something we plan to keep and hold for a very
long time."
Investment holding company House of Three, of which Mr Lee is executive
chairman, is developer and owner of Three on The Bund.
Established in March 2000, it is incorporated in Hong Kong and is the
first privately owned company to obtain approval to develop and own a
building on The Bund.
Three on The Bund was the company's first private-equity backed venture
in China, Mr Lee said. "I hope it will be profitable soon. When we
achieve a return on our investment is another thing, but we're looking at a
five- to seven-year investment horizon before we see a return," he
said.
What next for Mr Lee? He has started on a new project with the same
partners, Grand Tour Tires. "I can't tell you yet what it is, but
it's as central and important a location as The Bund, but in Beijing."
- SOUTH
CHINA MORNING POST 9
Feb 2004
It's hard to imagine where all those cigar-puffing foreign businessmen
and cognac-sipping Chi-nese entrepreneurs spent their time before Three on
the Bund opened last year. The renovated 1916 building on Shanghai's
historic waterfront is a monument to the Chinese dream and the money flowing
into the world's hottest market. Designed by American architect Michael
Graves, it houses, inter alia, four of the city's top eateries, a spa with
rivers of flowing Evian, and the city's flagship Armani store. At the
velvet-swathed Jean Georges restaurant, tycoons hammer out transpacific
deals over East-meets-West cuisine, while at the Shanghai Gallery of Art,
trendsetters browse pricey, contemporary Chinese paintings. But by far the
most exclusive spot in this modern-day pleasure palace is the Cupola—the
building's domed lookout, which offers both eight-seater and two-seater
private dining chambers. The food, courtesy of any of Three on the Bund's
restaurants, is tasty enough, but it's the view—of the futuristic
skyscrapers of the Pudong business district across the river and the
neoclassical financial institutions down the embankment—that is
superlative. What better place to toast the 21st century than this lofty
crossroads of old and new China? - TIME
MAGAZINE 2005 June 27
Iconic Peace Hotel to get US$50m
facelift Owners aim to
return ageing Shanghai landmark to ranks of world's best
Even a grande dame needs a facelift when
a younger rival moves in down the street.
  |
| Peace
Hotel:
First opened in 1929 as the Cathay Hotel, it faces competition from
a slew of glitzy outfits including a US$360m Peninsula Hotel being
built nearby |
The venerable Peace Hotel, an icon of
glamorous 1930s Shanghai, is preparing for a US$50 million renovation that
its owners hope will put it back in the ranks of the world's best.
Jinjiang International Group thinks the
project is needed to help the hotel compete with a slew of glitzy
establishments in the booming city, including a US$360 million Peninsula
Hotel being built by Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels Ltd nearby on the northern
tip of the Bund waterfront.
'If we don't upgrade, it just won't do.
You can't compete on culture alone,' public relations manager Ma Yongzhang
said on Friday. He began work as a room attendant at the hotel as the chaos
of China's Cultural Revolution erupted 40 years ago.
Opened by businessman Victor Sassoon in
1929 as the Cathay Hotel, the hotel welcomed Charlie Chaplin and Noel Coward
to the city known as the Pearl of the Orient. It was renamed the Peace Hotel
in 1956, after the Communists took power.
It hosted Chinese warlords, entertained
Shanghai gangsters and survived Red Guard attacks before Shanghai
conglomerate Jinjiang refurbished it 10 years ago.
The Italian marble in the art deco lobby
gleams once again, but the elevators are clunky and the rooms do not always
meet international five-star standards, guests say. Its occupancy rate was a
respectable 78 per cent in 2005, but it has slipped this year.
The exact timing and full cost of the
hotel's renovation have not been finalised yet, Mr Ma said. But the vision
is clear - to recreate a luxury hotel for guests who romanticise the pre-war
Shanghai era.
Mr Ma recalled how he and other staff
protected the hotel when it was targeted during the Cultural Revolution as a
symbol of capitalism.
'The Red Guards came and wanted to smash
the dragon and phoenix ceilings of the restaurant, but we told them that
would leave the staff and guests with nowhere to eat.
'So we said we'd smash it
ourselves, and instead we covered the whole ceiling with papers, and
protected it.' - SINGAPORE
BUSINESS TIMES 2006 July 3
Owners plan a makeover for Shanghai's
Peace Hotel
The Peace Hotel, an aging colonial icon
on Shanghai's scenic waterfront, will be renovated under a deal signed with
Fairmont Hotels and the Swiss watchmaker Swatch.
Jinjiang International Hotel Management,
China's biggest hotel operator and current owner of the Peace Hotel,
announced plans to join with the two foreign companies in a notice posted on
the Web site of the Hong Kong Stock Exchange on Wednesday.
Plans call for the owners to keep the
hotel's historic design and art-deco highlights.
Jinjiang and Fairmont Hotels &
Resorts, a Saudi-controlled luxury hotel group based in Toronto, are setting
up a joint venture to renovate and manage the best-known northern wing of
the hotel, located at the corner of Shanghai's Nanjing Road shopping street
and the waterfront Bund, the notice said.
The 78-year-old hotel closed this month,
with construction work expected to last about two years, it said.
The southern wing of the Peace Hotel will
be renovated and managed by a joint venture between Jinjiang and a unit of
the Swatch Group of Switzerland, Jinjiang said.
That wing, to be known as the Shanghai
Swatch Art Center, will be transformed into an art center and also house
flagship stores for international-brand watches, it said.
Jinjiang, the largest tourism
conglomerate in China's biggest city, owns some of Shanghai's choicest
historic hotels. But the state-run company has been struggling to acquire
the international managerial expertise it needs to compete with the dozens
of top-flight global hotel operators setting up operations in China.
It faces competition along the Bund from
some of the biggest names in retailing - many other colonial buildings have
already been revamped into fashionable boutiques, restaurants and galleries.
But the company's decision to join with
foreign companies in upgrading the Peace Hotel has raised some eyebrows.
"South Wing: Artists Only
Welcome," said a headline in the local newspaper Oriental Morning Post.
The Peace Hotel opened in 1929 as the
Cathay, built and owned by the Iraqi Jewish tycoon Victor Sassoon, who
resided in a pyramid-shaped rooftop penthouse that has inspired the look of
scores of modern Chinese skyscrapers.
The 12-story main building was the place
to stay in the Shanghai of the 1930s and '40s, attracting famous guests like
Charlie Chaplin, General George Marshall of the United States, and the
playwright Noel Coward, who completed his famous work, "Private
Lives," while staying at the Cathay.
Following the Communist takeover in 1949,
the hotel nationalized and renamed to drop perceived colonialist overtones.
- ASSOCIATED
PRESS 17 April 2007
Shanghai's legendary Astor Hotel
 
Situated in an inconspicuous
corner near the Bund, the Pujiang Hotel, formerly the Astor House Hotel,
seems to have lost its bygone glory.
The low-rise building has been eroded to be dated in colour,
which was submerged among the eminent architecture of the Bund.
Few members of the city's younger generation are even aware
that the hotel exists, let alone that it is considered the father of the
city's luxury hotels.
The hotel was opened in 1846. In 1861 the two-story hotel was
sold to Henry Smith who renamed it the Astor House Hotel. The building we
see today was completed in 1910. In 1959, the hotel name was changed to
Pujiang Hotel.
It was once the most renowned and luxurious foreign-owned
hotel in the Far East.
The Victorian-style design was the work of an Englishman,
which can be detected from the grand columns standing in the halls and
arched gates.
The hotel has witnessed many breakthrough events in Chinese
history. The first lamp bulb in the country was lit here, the first
telephone in the country was switched on here, and the first sound film from
the West was projected here.
Plus, China's first ball was held in the hotel, helping to
bring to a close the tradition that women should not attend social
activities.
It is said that Chiang Kai-shek had his last dinner here
before withdrawing to the island of Taiwan.
A bellboy picked up a wallet belonging to a Russian at the
main entrance to the hotel, and used one third of it to buy a car, serving
as the first taxi in the country. He was the founder of Johnson, now Qiang
Sheng Taxis.
Today, when you walk on the creaking wooden floor and see the
simple furniture, you cannot imagine the brilliant days of the hotel. It is
only a two-star hotel now.
Some of the 116 guestrooms, in which international celebrities
such as Charlie Chaplin and Albert Einstein once stayed, are taken as
historic spots with photos hanging on the wall to show guests.
The suites have been redecorated in their original style
(except for modern electric appliances), and some of the furniture has been
modeled with guidance from old photos.
The hotel still keeps its hulking and slow manual-operating
elevators, which work from 7:00am to 11:00pm.
Close to an international wharf, the hotel changed some
guestrooms for young travelers, known as the youth hostel. Here there are
several beds in one room.
It's the first of its
kind in Shanghai, and has been applauded by young student tourists.
-
By Lu Chang, Shanghai
Star ; South
China Morning Post
 
>> Shanghai
World Financial Centre
Shanghai
office rents close to overtaking NY
The cost of renting high grade offices in Shanghai is close to overtaking
that of downtown New York, according to a new survey which underlines
China’s rapid economic growth.
The Pudong district in the Chinese city is now the
41st most expensive place to occupy in the world, just behind lower New York
at 40th.
For the first time, China has three districts in
the Global Market Rents Top 50 compiled by CB Richard Ellis, the property
agents, which measures prime A-grade property across the world.
These are Pudong (41), Shanghai’s new business
district, Puxi (48), the city’s more established commercial area, and
Beijing (50).
The trend reflects China’s emergence as a global
economic power.
China’s trade surplus with the US is now running
at around $160bn a year. For 2004, its gross domestic product increased 9.5
per cent while industrial production was up 16 per cent.
This growth has been accompanied by an explosion
of construction, especially in China’s biggest cities, whose population
has mushroomed due to an influx of rural labourers.
However, the speed of property development in
China has raised fears of a bubble that could burst if demand slowed down.
In Puxi, for instance, vacancy levels are running between 25 per cent and 30
per cent.
“Although Beijing and Shanghai are oversupplied
at the moment, that supply is of questionable quality and aimed at the local
market rather than international investors,” said Michael Haddock of CBRE.
“The space that is built to suitable specifications and appropriate for
international occupiers is limited, pushing up the price.”
China-based property experts said demand for prime
office properties in Shanghai, and especially Puxi, was strong late last
year. While Shanghai’s residential prices and rents have fallen since
early 2004, office prices and rents have continued to rise, according to
property researchers DTZ.
David Hand, managing director for Jones Lang
LaSalle in Beijing, said that compared with a decade ago, China’s larger
cities were not at risk of witnessing a major price correction since the
volumes of both supply and demand had risen sharply since then, making for a
healthier market.
But he nonetheless pointed out China’s property
market remained “embryonic” in many respects.
“We still have to get to the point where there
is an active secondary market,” added Anna Kalifa, the head of research
for Jones Land LaSalle in Beijing.
Mr Hand also noted that multinationals generally
preferred to lease expensive office space while Chinese companies were more
prone to buying properties.
A handful of international property developers are
taking their first tentative steps into the Chinese market, although the
risks and barriers to entry are still considered high.
Meanwhile, London’s West End remains the most
expensive location in the world, at $191.60/sq ft a year. It is followed by
London’s City at $125.80, central Tokyo at $124.36, outer Tokyo at $119.51
and Paris at $96.12.
By contrast, downtown New York is $37.80/sq ft a
year and Pudong in Shanghai is $37.61.
Some experts caution against direct comparisons of
office costs, given that rent is often measured in different ways in
different countries. - By Jim Pickard in
London and Andrew Yeh in Beijing FINANCIAL
TIMES 26 January 2005
Fast-lane Shanghai hit by power
crunch, traffic
Shanghai is expected to show slower economic growth
this year as China's richest city and commercial stronghold grapples with
power crunches, a property bubble and traffic snarls, the mayor said on
Tuesday.
The city of 20 million -- roughly the population
of Australia -- should nonetheless grow 11 percent and rack up its 14th year
of double-digit growth, mayor Han Zheng told an annual meeting of the city's
parliament.
Despite electricity shortages brought on by a
scorching summer and frigid winter and Beijing's efforts to rein in
investment in sectors from steel to property nationwide, Shanghai's economy
grew 13.5 percent in 2004 -- its fastest rate since 1998.
Han said the city would build more power plants
and encourage energy conservation after a summer heat wave forced 1,000
firms to shut temporarily for the second year running, including Volkswagen
AG's local plant.
A freezing winter also taxed the grid, at one
point forcing more than 800 firms to shift production to graveyard shifts.
"We will enhance our energy security by
developing a number of electrical power and liquefied natural gas
projects," he told parliament members in a Russian-style exhibition
hall, without giving details.
Shanghai raised power generating capacity by more
than 10 percent in 2004 and plans to invest another 20 billion yuan ($2.42
billion) to improve grid transmission.
Han, mayor since 2003, also took aim at soaring
property prices and increasingly gridlocked traffic, two other corollaries
of breakneck growth, promising more affordable housing and greater
investment in roads and public transport.
The city is luring multinationals seeking a
manufacturing base in low-cost China, but also houses the Asian headquarters
of the world's largest auto maker, General Motors Corp , and U.S.
conglomerate Honeywell International Inc. .
Shanghai hosted a Formula One Grand Prix in 2004
and is preparing for the World Expo in 2010.
Actual foreign investment rose 12 percent to $6.54
billion in 2004, while exports leapt 52 percent to $73.5 billion, Han added.
Booming trade propelled Shanghai past Rotterdam to
become the world's second-busiest port in 2004. Container traffic rose 29
percent to 13.55 million 20-foot equivalent units.
Some previous Shanghai mayors have gone on to join
the rarefied ranks of China's cabinet in Beijing, including former president
Jiang Zemin and former premier Zhu Rongji.
Concerns had surfaced Shanghai may be losing its
attraction for multinationals compared with cheaper Chinese cities, because
of rising housing and consumer goods prices, traffic jams and bureaucracy.
"If not addressed promptly and effectively,
they will undermine Shanghai's long-term development," Han said.
"We must take these problems very seriously." ($1=8.276 Yuan) -
REUTERS
18 January 2005
Shanghai Property Synopsis
Having grown at a phenomenal rate in the past several years, Shanghai's
residential property market continues to improve but has eased into a
steadier pace. The buoyant rebound has been in part due to speculative
buying and developers cashing in on the rising demand.
However, to avert any possible overheating, the government introduced
several measures in the past year such as more stringent regulations for
developers, credit access and transfer of properties. With fears of
excessive supply and speculative activity in check, the market has been
brought into better balance.
Since the last trough in 1999, home prices have risen some 90 per cent.
In 2003 alone, prices went up 25-40 per cent while the increase has
moderated to 12-15 per cent for the first eight months of this year.
Investment grade properties, which encompass mid- to high-end apartments
or villas in the US$1,500-US$2,000 psm price range, have also seen their
prices rise - possibly even more for those in the city centre due to their
limited supply.
With supply of investment grade developments in prime locations being
restrained by recent regulations, existing or soon-to-be-launched projects
will be well placed to meet the still-rising occupational demand.
Two such properties coming up in the next six months are phases two and
three of New Westgate Garden at Fuxing/Zhaozhou Road near Huaihai Road and
Chevalier Place in the prime district of Huashan Road.
Apart from capital appreciation, rental demand remains healthy as more
multinational corporations continue to make Shanghai their regional base.
High-end apartments in the city are usually the preferred choice of
expatriates and can command an average rent of US$17 psm per month,
translating to yields of 7-8 per cent.
Unlike other Asian countries that have a more mature economy and property
market, Shanghai's economy and property market are still at the growth
stage. Demand for housing will continue to grow - both for owner occupation
and investment - and prices should continue to see a steady rise in tandem
with economic growth. - 2004 Oct SINGAPORE
BUSINESS TIMES
Luxury marques make a
beeline for Shanghai
Plaza 66, Citic, Portman, New Sogo, Times Square,
Three on the Bund and soon 18 on the Bund: in China's wealthiest city
Shanghai, skyscrapers are pushing through old suburbs and temples to luxury
abound.
'Five years ago, there were about 20-30 luxury
shops here. Today, everyone is here and their networks in continental China
are becoming more and more significant,' McKinsey management consultant
Jacques Penhirin told AFP.
Christian Dior, which has been in China since
1998, has, for example, doubled its space at its top-flight Plaza 66 store
and is planning to open Dior Hommes in December to join Hermes, Vuitton,
Prada, Celine, Versace and Cartier at the elite location. Shanghai is the
most international city in China and counts a high number of Western and
Asian expatriates among its population of 17 million people.
Many among the Chinese diaspora have also returned
to put down roots, such as Yue-Sai Kan, one of the most powerful women in
China.
In 1992, she successfully launched the first
Chinese cosmetics company, which has since come under the control of
cosmetics giant L'Oreal with Ms Kan as vice-president of its China
operations.
But Shanghai is an expensive city in a largely
poor nation, in which McKinsey estimates only 300,000 people in a population
of 1.3 billion have more than US$1 million in assets, excluding property.
This has made the metropolis merely a shopwindow for most, displaying luxury
items that are highly taxed in mainland China.
'Prices can be 30 per cent higher in Shanghai
compared to Hong Kong,' Mr Penhirin said.
People are still buying though, with gifts to
smooth business transactions and pamper wives and mistresses making up a
'not insignificant' part of the turnover, he said.
Dior couture and perfume Asian representative
Pierre Denis is in no doubt that 'luxury in Shanghai, as in China, is a
reality'.
'China, with Hong Kong and Taiwan, represents 10
per cent of the business of Christian Dior couture,' he told AFP.
For Chinese consumers, who have suffered many
years of privation under communist rule, 'luxury begins with handbags and
skin creams or lipsticks', he said.
Most interested are a new generation of women in
business, aged between 25 and 35, he said.
Nonetheless, an average Dior bag is double the
city's average monthly wage, retailing for 6,000-8,000 yuan (S$1,205-1,607)
with the mean salary between 3,000 and 4,000 yuan.
Not all the labels have set up shop in Shanghai,
but the most important are here and they agree that there is strong
potential in the Chinese market.
It is a matter of 'familiarising the Chinese with
the new names that they do not know and are beginning to see in the local
fashion magazines', Mr Denis said. - AFP
2 Nov 2004
Shanghai snippets
Among Shanghai’s home-grown talent are Joan
Chen, the glamorous, American-based actress who starred in ‘‘The Last
Emperor’’ and ‘‘Twin Peaks,’’ painter Chen Yifei and veteran
soccer star Fan Zhiyi, whose athletic prowess helped China reach the World
Cup finals for the first time.
Shanghai is the only Chinese city
with two international airports. The new facility at Pudong handles the bulk
of international flights, while the older Hongqiao has domestic flights and
short-haul flights to such destinations as Hong Kong.
The legendary Peace Hotel Jazz
Band is still going strong nightly. When China opened up to tourism in the
1980s, the old-timers regrouped and have even been on overseas tours,
playing the traditional jazz they used to play in nightclubs in pre-1949
Shanghai.
Actor Dennis Hopper, known for his
role in the influential movie ‘‘Easy Rider,’’ recently wound up
filming a futuristic television series in Shanghai.
When former U.S. President Bill
Clinton stayed at the Portman Ritz-Carlton, chefs rustled up the president’s
preferred low-fat breakfast muffins and - to feed accompanying bodyguards
and staff - placed orders for 8,000 eggs, 200 kilograms (440 pounds) of
fruit and 300 Peking ducks.
One of the city’s most famous
dishes is Shanghai hairy crabs, only in season for a short time (usually
mid-to-late November) and much prized by gourmet diners in Shanghai and
elsewhere.
Mao-tai, the fiery and powerful
rice wine used to toast people at traditional banquets in Shanghai and other
parts of China, won an award at the San Francisco World Expo back in 1915.
The top-selling household
appliance in Shanghai is the color television. Some 806,914 are purchased
annually, followed by 428,585 electric fans and 420,585 air
conditioners. - INTERNATIONAL
HERALD TRIBUNE
Shanghai Port aims for #1
SHANGHAI The
Shanghai government's port operator is planning to spend 5 billion yuan, or
$604 million, on the first phase of a deepwater project that may make the
city the world's biggest container handler by 2010.
Shanghai Port Container and its
state-owned parent company will invest the money in Yangshan port, which is
being constructed 28 kilometers, or 17 miles, from China's largest
commercial city, the company said Saturday in a statement in the Shanghai
Securities News.
China is pushing ahead with the $16
billion project to help end transport bottlenecks caused by surging foreign
trade. Overseas operators, including Hutchison Whampoa and PSA, have
expressed interest in investing in Yangshan, which is designed to handle 25
million standard containers annually, more than Hong Kong's total of 21
million containers last year.
"The investment will help to ease
berth constraints for Shanghai port and create room for future
expansion," said Ma Ying, a Shanghai-based analyst at Haitong
Securities. Shanghai Port's "earnings may get a boost from 2006 after
the Yangshan Port starts operation."
Chinese ports including Shanghai, Ningbo
and Shenzhen handled 48 million 20-foot cargo containers last year, 30
percent more than in 2002 and surpassing the United States for the first
time, China\'s Ministry of Communications said in January. Hong Kong
is the world's busiest port, handling 21 million containers last year,
followed by Singapore with 18 million and Shanghai with 10.65 million, the
Oriental Morning Post said in January. Shanghai's container
traffic may more than double to about 25 million containers by 2010,
Shanghai Port said. Yangshan port, which will have 52 berths when
completed in 2020, will enable bigger container ships to dock at
Shanghai.
PSA, which operates Singapore's port,
Hutchison Whampoa, controlled by the Hong Kong tycoon Li Ka-shing, and
P&O Ned Lloyd Container Line are among overseas companies that have been
in talks to invest in the project, the Shanghai government has said. .
China's container shipments are still rising after the government introduced
measures this year to cool economic growth, shipping lines such as China
Ocean Shipping Group and Kawasaki Kisen Kaisha of Japan said last
week.
Shipments to and from China rose 29
percent in May, according to the latest figures from the London-based Drewry
Shipping Consultants. That was the same rate as April and higher than March.
. The government is trying to slow economic growth to 7 percent this year,
from a seven-year high of 9.1 percent in 2003, by clamping down on lending
to industries such as steel and real estate, where an investment boom has
contributed to transport bottlenecks, energy shortages and rising raw
materials prices.
China's exports surged 47 percent
in June to a record $51 billion, while imports jumped 51 percent to $49
billion, the Beijing-based Ministry of Commerce said last week. The nation's
share of world trade has tripled to about 7 percent in the past decade,
making China the world's third-largest importer. Shanghai Port
will spend 2.55 billion yuan to take a 51 percent stake in Shanghai Yangshan
International Container Wharf, the company said in its statement. Shanghai
International Port will invest 2.45 billion yuan for the remainder, it said.
. Shanghai Port's net income rose 28.3 percent to 998.8 million yuan last
year from a year earlier as revenue climbed a third to 3.3 billion yuan.
First-quarter profit dropped 7.6 percent because of higher costs, while
sales jumped 20.5 percent to 912.8 million yuan. . Shareholders will vote on
the investment plan on Aug. 20, the company said. Shanghai Port may sell
additional shares or convertible bonds to finance the investment, said Ma at
Haitong. - by Jianguo Jian
Bloomberg
News July 19, 2004
Starry-eyed
Broadway producers dream of China
NEW YORK: If
starry-eyed young actors dream of making it big one day on Broadway, what do
starry-eyed Broadway producers dream of? China, baby.
Next week the Nederlanders, one of the
big three Broadway theater owners, are planning to announce the details of a
new company they have formed that, among other things, will present and
market tours and live entertainment in China. The entry of the Nederlanders
into the Asian market is only the latest sign of how sizzling it has become.
"The Broadway brand is very hot to
them," said Simone Genatt, one of the creators of Broadway Asia
Entertainment, a company that produces and presents tours in Asia.
"There are a lot of theaters going up across mainland China."
The company, Nederlander New Century, to
be unveiled officially next week, was first put together a year ago as a
joint venture of Nederlander Worldwide Entertainment and a group based in
China, Beijing Time New Century Entertainment. The plan was first reported
in Crain's New York.
Broadway shows have been in Japan for
years and the touring business has been spreading to South Korea, Singapore
and other Asian countries. China represents a significantly larger
marketplace. In September 2005, its Ministry of Culture announced that it
would allow foreign investment in the entertainment industry; Nederlander
New Century is the first company to be established under the new rules.
Taking Broadway to China over the past
decade has been a slow process and at times a thorny one; presenters
sometimes have to cope with a bramble of bureaucracy and an audience that is
by and large unfamiliar with the Western musical.
It does not help that most of the
productions presented have been in English. Tickets are less expensive in
China, so the tours need to be produced more efficiently.
But the rush of eager producers and
presenters is growing crowded. At the head of the pack are three operations
based in New York: Broadway Asia Entertainment; the British impresario
Cameron Mackintosh (who brought a production of "Les Misérables"
to China in 2002); and Disney Theatricals, part of Walt Disney Co.
Independent tours are dancing into China
as well: A tour of "Mamma Mia!" will go to Beijing for a short
engagement in August.
Broadway Asia Co. was created in 1991 by
Genatt and Marc Routh. Two and a half years ago it entered into a formal
partnership — creating Broadway Asia Entertainment — with the Frankel/Viertel/Routh/Baruch
Group, the producing and management company behind "Hairspray,"
"The Producers" and the latest revival of "Sweeney
Todd."
Broadway Asia, which holds the Asian
licensing rights to the Rodgers & Hammerstein library, has already
produced a tour of "The Sound of Music" in China. Tours of
"The King and I" and Chinese-language versions of "SpongeBob
SquarePants Live!" and the Off Broadway musical "I Love You,
You're Perfect, Now Change" are scheduled to begin in the next few
months.
Genatt said Broadway Asia was also
creating theatrical training schools in several Asian cities, teaching the
fundamentals of musical theater performance. Although the labor for the
shows is local, the performers in the tours have in most cases come from
English-speaking countries.
"We want to help build the
infrastructure for the future of Chinese touring," Genatt said, adding
that Broadway Asia was one of the producers of a planned $12 million
original Chinese musical, "The Monkey King."
Disney Theatricals jumped into the mix in
1995, when "Beauty and the Beast" opened in Tokyo. Four yeas
later, a licensed Chinese-language production of "Beauty" was
presented in Beijing, where it ran for four weeks.
David Schrader, managing director and
chief financial officer of Disney Theatricals, said one of the main
challenges in many parts of Asia was finding theaters. Major cities like
Beijing and Shanghai have elaborate performing arts centers that play host
to orchestral and dance performances, leaving small gaps for theater.
The government is building more theaters
and converting some buildings that were meant for other uses. But given the
current landscape, Schrader said, touring is more logical than producing
blockbusters from the ground up. That has not stopped Disney from trying for
extended runs.
The longest engagement for Disney so far
— and for any Western musical, Schrader said — was a 13-week run of
"The Lion King" at the Shanghai Grand last year.
- by Campbell Robertson INTERNATIONAL
HERALD TRIBUNE 14 March 2007
Shanghai Covets a Big Role on Asia's Cultural Stage
 Chang W. Lee/The New York Times
A visitor with masks at the Shanghai Museum, one of several
new spaces in the city
With its bold and luminous cut-glass design, the Shanghai Grand Theater
can stake a claim to being the heart of this city, and the dazzling
impression it makes fits this pulsing business center's glittery self-image
to a T.
On a recent night here, as a full house settled in to watch an entirely
Chinese production of a Broadway-style dance theater show, "Wild
Zebra," the opening event in an international dance competition, the
city's vice mayor delivered a booming inaugural exhortation that recalled
the style of party cadres past.
Shanghai, he announced stiffly, is moving toward the great goal of
creating a modern international culture center in Asia. His language was
perhaps a bit blunt, but given Shanghai's cultural ambitions, it was
difficult to gainsay the message for exaggeration.
For as long as the Communist Party has ruled China, Shanghai has suffered
a deep inferiority complex in relation to the capital, Beijing. The early
20th century was Shanghai's moment in the sun, when it had a global
reputation as a flashy and fleshy sin city with top-flight Western
architecture and a cabaret culture to match.
But much of what was most vibrant then was derived from abroad, at a time
when the country was carved up into imperial concessions, and Shanghai was
China's main door to the world. Before that, Shanghai, a mere infant of a
city, had hardly registered in the long tableau of Chinese history.
Nowadays the city's cultural profile is changing as fast as its skyline,
which barely 15 years ago was a drab and low-slung jumble and today ranks
easily as one of the world's most fantastic. Determined to raise the city to
the level of regional rivals like Tokyo and Hong Kong as well as Beijing,
Shanghai officials have made culture a major priority.
Beijing has its Forbidden City, its prestigious national schools and
museums, its centuries-old neighborhoods that breathe Chinese culture, none
of which Shanghai can realistically challenge. But like Tokyo, all but
destroyed in World War II, this city is making a virtue of its newness.
As a cornerstone of the revival, which began in earnest in the early
1990's, the Shanghai government spent $226.8 million, an immense sum in a
country still classified as a developing nation, to build a world-class
cultural complex in the center city. The recently built structures include
the Shanghai Grand Theater, the equally striking Shanghai Museum, in the
shape of an ancient Tang vessel, and the Shanghai Art Museum.
The city's investment in premium performance and exhibition spaces,
though still modest in comparison with major Western artistic centers, has
given Shanghai not only a blush of self confidence but also a cockiness in
its rivalry with Beijing.
"Shanghai can already attract talent from all over the country, in
fact all over the world," said Chen Feihua, director of the Shanghai
dance school that created "Wild Zebra." "Our production
values are broader and fit international tastes. `Wild Zebra' has toured on
the best stages of Europe, Paris, Berlin, Madrid and other cities, and there
is a business element to this that is very particular to Shanghai." He
continued: "We go into these markets, and when we return home, we don't
just smile and wave goodbye, we bring home 10 million euros. Our friends in
Beijing look at our ability to do something like this with a lot of
envy."
Shanghai's strategy of build and hope the visitors come seems to be
gathering momentum but draws mixed reviews even among the city's artists,
who are debating how the city goes about becoming a world-class cultural
center.
An ambitious private museum, the Shanghai Gallery of Art, opened in
January at Three on the Bund, a lavishly restored building in the historic
riverfront district. It has become a premier place for displaying new
Chinese artists and established stars. "Shanghai has already become an
attractive cultural city," Weng Ling, director of the museum, said.
"What we need now is more professionalism, more cultural exchanges and
more support for artists."
Across the Huangpu River in the Pudong district, reclaimed swampland that
is now home to the city's tallest, most gaudily lighted skyscrapers, the
city government is planning a new art museum in collaboration with the
Guggenheim Museum in New York, raising doubts among some who wonder whether
Shanghai is going too far, too fast.
"A year ago someone told me that China has built 35 cultural
complexes, but who is going to perform in them?" asked Kai-Yin Lo, a
Hong Kong designer who has advised that city on its artistic development.
"The Germans and the Japanese have learned the lesson of hardware: that
without the software, you can't maintain the flow. Just look at Bilbao."
"Freedom, too, is very important," she added. "That is
what we in Hong Kong can boast."
Urban and cultural development experts agree that museums and other
institutions are a starting point. But they say that to emerge as a real
cultural powerhouse, a city must fulfill a variety of criteria, including
some that defy government planning here.
"Cities that are really vibrant are creative in a lot of different
ways," said Richard Florida, a professor of economic development at
Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh and the author of "The Rise of
the Creative Class . . . And How It's Transforming Work, Leisure, Community
and Everyday Life." "You look at a city like Pittsburgh, which
built huge artistic institutions, really huge places, and drove all of their
artists out — people like Andy Warhol or Billy Strayhorn, because they
were too edgy and unconventional, or maybe gay."
Professor Florida said that so far the greatest cities of East Asia were
falling short of these criteria. "It is important to have the
institutions, but you also need vibrant street culture and an open culture,
not only openness toward ethnic diversity, but also diversity in sexual
orientation and freedom of expression," he said. "Asia certainly
needs a city like this, and Shanghai could be the one. Certainly the city
that figures it out first will have some tremendous advantages."
By reputation Shanghai is China's most cosmopolitan city, but even some
artists who have succeeded here say the city falls short of the diversity
needed to become a world-class cultural center.
"They don't have any international students, and I haven't noticed
any international teachers, either," said Yuan Yuan Tan, 28, a native
of Shanghai who dances with the San Francisco Ballet. "If Shanghai
wants to be an international cultural center, they have to do something
about that. The reason I left is that I wanted to explore what ballet is all
about, and if I had stayed put, that wouldn't have happened.
By one important measure, however, Shanghai has already succeeded.
Increasingly, artists based here have proved they can flourish
internationally with little need, as in the past, to go to Beijing first to
establish themselves.
"As a new city, the software or the quality of the people and their
artistic taste has to be boosted gradually," said Yang Fudong, a
specialist in elaborate and deliberately puzzling multimedia displays who
has become one of China's best known artists internationally.
At the Shanghai Gallery of Art recently, Mr. Yang was putting the
finishing touches on a new exhibit, a labyrinthlike construction with two
film projectors casting their images across the faces of people who wander
inside. "In Shanghai I see people taking in the shows, going to the
museums, even taking their children to the museums, and that's a beautiful
thing," he said. "One doesn't become a fat man overnight, so we
shouldn't be impatient." -
NEW
YORK TIMES
 
Whether
you call them delusions of grandeur or visionary thinking, China's biggest city
has plans that are nothing if not bold
Shanghai 04
Jan 15th 2004 | SHANGHAI
From The Economist print edition
Apart from a
dozen Chinese tourists posing for a photograph, the platform at the oval
dome-covered Longyang Road Station is nearly empty as the world's fastest train
pulls in. Minutes later, with all but a handful of its 500 seats unoccupied, the
train glides off, levitating on an electromagnetic cushion that propels it with
barely a judder to its top speed of 430kph (267mph). It takes just eight minutes
to complete the journey to Pudong International Airport, an ultra-modern
structure of glass and steel 30km (19 miles) away.
Considering the thrill
of being on the world's first maglev train in commercial use—and the half an
hour or more saved on the journey—it might seem odd that so few people are
trying it out. Since daily services were launched on December 29th, about 1,000
tickets a day have been sold on weekdays (out of 12,000 available). At weekends,
when novelty-seekers are out in greater numbers, the total still only rises to
about 5,000, according to Song Xiaojun, general manager of Shanghai Maglev
Transportation Development Co. If the arrival of maglev is a great boon to
Shanghai's overburdened transportation system, few appear to be aware of it.
  It
is more than just a cautious approach to rolling out this new, German-supplied,
technology that is keeping numbers down. While other countries, including
Germany itself, have hesitated about adopting maglev because of the high cost
and uncertain returns, Shanghai has happily poured $1.2 billion into its
track—even though a glance at a map immediately suggests the risks involved.
Longyang Road Station, the only stop apart from the airport, is on the city's
eastern fringe, a considerable distance from most residential areas. A taxi ride
between the airport and Longyang costs little more than the 75 yuan ($9) price
of a maglev ticket and saves the hassle of a transfer.
Shanghai's gamble on maglev, in which seven big state-owned companies have a stake, reflects an
approach to the city's development that places great store on massively
expensive and commercially dicey projects. Since the early 1990s Shanghai has
been driven by a desire to reclaim its pre-communist era status as a regional
financial capital and a cosmopolitan haven for international capitalists eager
to penetrate the Chinese market—that lavish but raffish world immortalised in
Vicki Baum's novel, “Shanghai '37”. China's former prime minister, Zhu
Rongji (who previously served as Shanghai's party chief and is normally known
for his hard-headedness), strongly backed the maglev project when it got under
way in 2000.
Cynics should perhaps
beware. The city's “build it and they will come” mentality has, after all,
paid off handsomely before. Many people scoffed when Shanghai announced plans in
1990 to develop what was then just an expanse of marshy land, villages and old
factories into the city's new financial district. Today Pudong, as the area is
called (and where the maglev is located), is a stunning conglomeration of
soaring office towers and hi-tech factories (pictured above) that has attracted
tens of billions of dollars in foreign investment. Last year, it is reckoned, it
sucked in just under $6 billion, more than a tenth of the total for the entire
country.
In the next few years,
changes in Shanghai—whose GDP, according to the
official figures, grew last year by a sizzling 11.8%—could be similarly
dramatic. In September, the city is due to host China's first Formula One
car-racing event. This has involved one of the biggest outlays of any Formula
One venue in the world, with $310m being spent on a 5.5km circuit and related
facilities now under construction on the western outskirts of the city.
The plan is to turn
this into the centrepiece of a new “auto city” in which all aspects of the
industry from manufacturing to sales will be concentrated. Yu Zhifei, deputy
general manager of the track's developers, Shanghai International Circuit Co,
admits that a lot of Chinese do not know what Formula One is and that many who
do are sceptical about the track's ability to make money. But he says he is
confident that the facility, with a seating capacity of 200,000, will turn a
profit as Chinese consumers' new-found penchant for cars continues to grow
apace.
The car craze is
evident in the worsening congestion of Shanghai's streets. But to the maglev's
operators, this is comforting. “Within a few years, it'll be very inconvenient
to take the road to the airport,” enthuses Mr Song. And next year, he says,
work should begin on extending the line another 7km to the site wh |